Since there is no industry standard. I have found that buying from reputable sources. increases ones chances of being informed correctly. When I buy wood I typically date it, log it into the database and then store it for at least a year. Most of the wood at the lumber store is a different grade of wood, its cut differently such as quarter sawn verses flat sawn. Generally most luthier woods are qtr sawn. Most big box stores are flat sawn and rift sawn. A great book which describes wood in more detail then one could ever want is Understanding Wood.

https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wo ... oks&sr=1-3

It's pretty much a necessary read of one is heading down the rabbit hole.

The terms “dried” and “seasoned” are often used synonymously, but this is not really correct. When wood loses moisture from X to Y %, it shrinks — everyone knows that, right? There are published coefficients describing the change in dimension on different axes from green to dry (workable). When wood is then rehydrated back to X%, it swells, but doesn’t NOT return to its original dimension. With each cycle of hydration and dehydration, the changes in dimension become smaller, such that the piece becomes dimensionally more stable. To wood technologists it’s known as hysteresis, to woodworkers it’s known as seasoning.

I'm a bit skeptical of seasoning resulting in reduced humidity movement. I've never seen any scientific studies done on it, and especially not with a bunch of pieces from the same batch divided into two groups, one of which is expanded and contracted repeatedly while the other is kept in humidity control. It seems to be more of a "traditional wisdom" thing, which means it may only be the effects of aging... and even that may be a false impression given by weeding out the unstable pieces over time, so what you're left with years later are the ones that were stable to begin with.

The hysteresis effect is definitely real, but it's repeatable. It just means that acclimating from high humidity down to say 50% will have higher moisture content (remain more swollen) than acclimating from low humidity up to 50%. I'm always tormented by luthiers fussing over precise humidity levels but never mentioning that you need to be consistent in your acclimation direction. It makes a 5-10% difference.

Now in my 45th year as a forest research scientist, I have a healthy respect for “skepticism”, but before you dismiss my explanation as a “traditional wisdom thing”, you might spend a little more time in the literature on wood physics and water relations.